Ha Long Bay and back

We just returned yesterday afternoon from a glorious overnight aboard the Emerauda, a replica of a 1920s paddle wheel boat. Apparently, during that time there was a fleet of such boats cruising around the bay.

Now there is only one and we are so grateful to have spent an overnight on it. We left Hanoi at 8:30 a.m. Saturday morning and embarked on a hair-raising crazy 3-hour journey east to Ha Long Bay. The driver spoke not a word of English - didn't even try - and drove like a kamikaze on a bad, bad acid trip. It was like being the focus of a driving video game with God at the controls. It was by his grace that we are still alive today because the number of times my stomach was in my mouth were too many to count.

Oncoming buses, passing motorbikes, water buffalo, people on the side of the road selling pineapples and baguettes, overtaking tourist buses - the list goes on. They all drive like mad. Last one there is a rotten egg, type of thing. Doesn't matter if you die along the way or crash. Having our babies onboard didn't help matters either! No seatbelts, no car seats. Just us and the road.

Anyway, three hours later, we barely arrived alive at the dock to board the Emeraude with just a few minutes to spare. Did I mention we were late because the driver got lost?

From the moment we stepped foot on the pier, we knew we were in for a treat. Oh, and when I say we, I mean our nuclear family plus our new friends the Shaws and their daughter Mia and our new friend Clay who traveled solo for the adventure. (We're all a part of the same adopting families.)

When we boarded the beautiful boat, the head purser asked us if we wanted to upgrate to a suite at a price we couldn't afford to decline. "More room, more room for your family," she promised. Traveling in a quarter, I'm always happy to opt for more space. So up to the Emeraude Suite we went. Our bags quickly followed as did a small baby crib for Molly that would have been outlawed in the states 50 years ago. It was all rather plush if I do say so myself. The linens had a high thread count and were clean and the a/c was cranked up nice and cold. I particularly loved the replicas of the old postcards of Ha Long Bay 100 years ago. Very French colonial. C'est tres Indochine.

Speaking of French, I got to use my French quite a bit which is always wonderful even though it's rustier than ever. There were a lot of French people onboard as well as Spanish and Japanese. We were among the few Americans which I always like. I get so bored with the U.S. centric view point of the world.

After we got somewhat settled into our cabin, we went down to the first deck to have participate in a sumptuous lunch buffet. I chowed on the fresh spring rolls, among other yummy things. The Vietnamese are hugely into seafood and the funkier the better. Squid is on every menu everywhere, not to mention sea urchin, octopus, sea wolf and sea cucumbers. Within minutes of leaving our mooring near the town docks, we were crusing through some of the most amazing scenery I've ever seen in my life. Really.

Hundreds of massive island formations covered in lush green foliage made out of limestone pierce the surface of the water creating a spectacular view. I just wanted to soak it up as we gently glided though the passageways and karsts humming with insects. It didn't take Max long to befriend most of the crew, especially the captain. They compared compasses and directions on the bridge several times. After lunch, Max and Tom hiked into a cave that has recently been discovered. It's filled with all sorts of stalagmites etc. not to mention kitschy lighting within. While they did that, Molly and I napped in the cabin.

Max and Tom jumped into the Gulf of Tonkin for a before dinner dip. Tom said the water was so salty it was effortless to float. I had a massage and then it was time to eat dinner. Something upset my tummy BAD so I just went to dinner without eating. Not even a ginger ale. I could hardly move I was so weak but thankfully took a homepathy remedy and it cleared up by the next day. So much so that I enjoyed a lovely breakfast in the morning. (More squid on the menu.)

It was a wonderful excursion from Hanoi. I didn't realize how out of connection I felt with nature til we left the smoggy city. The water was mellow and kind, extremely relaxing and healing at the same time. We saw lots of tourist boats (apparently there are 200 plus) but managed to ecsape them for most of the time.

You know what. It's late and I'm falling asleep at the keyboard. I'm going to have to write more in the morning b/c I'm so pooped. More later. I love you, I love you all, especially those of you who have stayed in touch via email and the blog. Thanks! Your missives mean so much to us.