Temples, temples and more temples

Okay, so it looks like the daily blog isn't going to work as I originally thought. In part because the computer connection in our room is weak at best, though I'm sure Melissa could figure it out, and I have to go ALL THE WAY down to the business center to hop on one of their computers COUPLED with the fact that we're having a great time and writing on the computer seems insignificant to, say, touring Angkor Wat.

The other very minor bummer is I haven't been able to post some of the wonderful photos we've taken to date but as soon as we get that hooked up, there will be lots of photos. Maybe even another blog just for photos from our trip??

But we complain not. As in nil. Cambodia is unbelievable and a must see for anyone remotely interested. We wish we had more time to explore and breathe in the atmosphere and leave knowing we are not doing this fine country justice.

I think it's fair to say Cambodia is my favorite country in South East Asia. It's a wonderful amalgamation of Thai, Chinese,Khmer and French influences. They don't spit everywhere and eat like animals like the Chinese, they don't smile and lie at the same time like the Thais. Indeed, unlike surrounding countries (i.e. Thailand and Indonesia) there's a sense of innoncence and honesty.

Even when the tuk tuk driver tries to overcharge us a $1 for the ride, he does so with one eyebrow raised - like he's only half asking and willing to accept the going rate without any fuss. Grateful for the work. Grateful especially to have a job in the rainy season when there aren't as many tourists infiltrating this former sleepy backwater. (FYI, if you are interested in visiting Angkor, do consider coming during the rainy season despite the dengue fever warnings. If the crowds yesterday were pesky and annoying - I would loathe to come during the dry season when they are reportedly much worse.)

Anyway, back to bargaining. Even though bargaining for everything is de riguer, Tom and I often find ourselves letting them have the extra dollar. It's hardly worth fighting over and they definitely need it. We use dollars for everything. Hardly any Cambodian riels exchanged b/c they have so little value. Prices wherever we go are in U.S. dollars. $20 admission to Angkor, $10 for an elephant ride etc. This is a very poor country. One that suffered a cultural genocide almost as worse, if not moreso, than the Jewish Holocaust. And this happened within the past 20 to 30 years - in most of our lifetimes and the world sat by in silence. As the general manager of the hotel pointed out to us, many of the Cambodians we see lost an entire generation. No role models and the educated were definitely the ones targeted the most. I could go on for days about this and need to refocus my ramblings, dear reader, on our blog and why we are really here. I'll try to stay on task but there's just so much to say!

The people are absolutely beautiful - brown skin, round faces, round eyes and sweet, sweet dispositions despite the incredible adversity they have had to live with/through. Pol Pot only died about 10 years ago and evidence of the ugliness of his horrendous regime can still be seen in the faces of the poor and the appendage-less victims of landmines.

(Yesterday, while we were at Angkor Wat, Max and I saw a man begging for money who had no legs. Clearly, having lost them in a landmine explosion. Try explaining that one to a 4 year old! I did my best to keep it age appropriate and encouraged Max to say hello the man and smile. What else could I do? It's so easy to feel paralyzed in the not knowing of how to help those around us who are suffering or who have suffered. Tom and I think so often these past few days of his father and step-mother, David and Penny McCall, who were here numerous times doing good things in Cambodia over ten years ago on behalf of Refugees International. Back when no one was here. I remember the story of Penny donating money for pumps so the villages could have access to clean water and they named them "Penny's Pumps." A little bit goes a long way. There are countless NGO's set up in the community trying to help the Cambodians help themselves. It's a beautiful system and seems contagious. I met a woman the other day by the pool who is American but lives in Singapore. She's on the board of an organization called Caring for Cambodia (caringforcambodia.com) which is helping to set up schools all through the area as education is one of the top needs. To make a long wandering story short, folks who are reading this stateside, complain not. We have it so easy in America. So embarrassingly easy we don't know how lucky we are. Fresh, clean water, a roof over our heads, healthy meals to eat, family etc. We've got it good, folks. Real good.

I'm running out of computer time and so will make this short though it's by no means to give less importance to what lies ahead. We leave tonight for Hanoi on a 7:30 flight from Siem Reap on Vietnam Airlines. (Here's to hoping it's better than the one that brought us here on Bangkok Air.) Quite possibly, we might meet our daughter tomorrow. The real reason for our journey is fast becoming apparent as we've had this mini-break from reality hiding out at the Raffles Hotel. Yesterday at breakfast, Max spontaneously broke into a prayer for Gopala, telling her we will be with her soon and that we are closer to her than we have been. "We're almost there to get you Gopala."

That kid, I tell you, never ceases to boggle my mind. Yesterday, while we were doing the temple tours around Angkor (turns out Angkor Wat is just one of many in a huge, complicated, magnificent complex), we observed some Buddhists offering incense and praying to a Buddha statue at the temple. Max asked our guide Keo what they were doing and he said they were praying. Max announced that he wanted to do it too so we watched him as a woman handed him three burning incense and taught him how to bow in front of the Buddha three times. He did it like a pro (very been there, done that) and told us that he said a prayer for Goapala. How could you not love that as a parent? He's been a fabulous ambassador and is without the social reservations we parents have. He talks to everbody and is rather a pain in the butt to have on the temple tour. Whenever we were approached by the hoardes of touts selling t-shirts, Angkor guide books, bracelets or cheap fans, Tom and I always just walk away saying no thank you. Max, on the other hand, says "I want one! I want that!" which the touts just love. After buying one bracelet he insisted on having, he was approached by another kid selling him more bracelets and he told them he already had them and waved them off. Then someone came up to him and said "you don't already have these!" I should have just given him five dollars and let him go to it. He's quite the bossy one and is unfazed by the crowds that surround him.

We're surprised that nearly all the Cambodians instantly recognize him as Korean. They have a hard time understanding "adopt" and don't quite get why his parents are American and he's Korean. When it's just me and Max together, they ask if my husband is Korean.

I've got to sign off. I'm almost out of computer time and Tom is getting anxious about me being down here for so long in the business center.

As I said earlier, we are getting ready for chapter two of our big adventure which starts tonight. It's possible we could meet Gopala tomorrow - don't know for sure though (I don't know anything for sure) and then Monday is the famous Giving and Receiving Ceremony when Goapal becomes ours in the eyes of the Vietnamese government. Holy cow. Such a momentous, huge life changing event and we're being awfully casual about it right now. Tom said this is our last day as just the three of us - very poignant and not a bad thing.

We are so glad we left a few days early and had a chance to break into the culture shock and new time zone gently and with ease. Our body clocks are far from adjusted - but we're getting closer. Siem Reap was definitely worth a stop. The temples were unbelievably amazing and I note that I didn't even cover that experience in the blog though I must say, Derek, if you are reading this, I did try to climb up the top of the tower in the rain on those narrow, narrow ledges in flip flops (the Asian national shoe). I made it halfway up and then chickened out but Tom McCall, stil remembered for his bungee jumping prowess in New Zealand, went all the way up. D, I didn't get your message til after going to the temples.

Thanks dear ones for reading this and I promise to write back with more news as it unfolds. My apologies for the long-windedness. We love you all and thank everyone for the support and friendship that has brought us to this very moment in our lives.

As my Mom always said in her letters to me, "more later."